Click on Links below to go to relevant sections
(suitable for Beginners)
Zebra & Hecks
to look after and keep
- A good
drawback if they are in an Aviary with other
are nesting ~ they will build their nests
on top of
eggs/chicks already in that Nest
to look after, Feed and keep
- A good
- Neighbour friendly!
are often used as Foster mums to Gouldian Finches
- Gouldian Finches (NOT for Beginner)
- do need more knowledgeable care inc. heat + specialised feeding and breeding conditions.
are not really for the Beginner - you can progress to these
once you have managed to successfully breed Bengalese and
to look after - hardy.
(The ones below
would be fine in a Mixed Aviary but poss not at Breeding time
- as they may get territorial and attack each other).
Usually they remain amicable as long as you don't introduce any
Nesting sites/Nest Boxes into their Aviary.
All "Parrot-like" Birds breed in a wooden Nest
box with a "concave" for the base.
Budgies are a delight to watch and own.
Hardy & Neighbour friendly!
Budgies are a lot smaller and easier to breed than the
bigger "Show" variety.
tend to feed and preen other budgies in the colony,
regardless of whether they are cocks or hens.
means nothing other than they are very friendly
come in lots of vibrant colours - blues / greens /
lutinos / albinos & lots of variations.
colour ending in "ino" means the bird has Red-eyes and
lacks any dark colouring in its feathers.
- LUTINO Budgies ~ all yellow with Red eyes
Budgies ~ all white with Red eyes
- The Hens
have Brown Ceres (the fleshy bit above their beaks) ~ Cock birds
have Blue Ceres.
- One way to "sex" a baby budgie in the nest is the bite!
bite as though they mean it
- Cocks will bite but
with no real conviction!
will breed "en-colony" i.e. lots of pairs together in
the same Aviary.
- In fact,
they seem to breed better if there are lots of them -
the more noise the better!
they chose a mate they tend to "mate for life".
don't really need any special food when breeding - just
good quality seed and water
of Fruit & Veg - all year round.
during spring and summer dandelion leaves, chickweed,
shepherds purse, spinach, and other safe green foods.
a Rabbit would eat your Budgie will eat too!
- Budgies DON't need a Calcium supplement
liquid) except for
- (they will use this at Breeding time)
- Oystershell and mineralised Grit (to aid digestion).
- They DO
NEED Iodine (provide Pink Iodine block)
- Budgies can suffer from an Iodine deficiency.
- They eat
a Budgie seed + Plain canary and millet sprays
- Too much
millet is very fattening.
love fruit & veg.
like to bathe
- I love
watching these birds - they are just slightly smaller than a
- Colour in
the Wild is a dark green with red on top of forehead and red
slash behind eye.
- In Captivity
they come in Buttercup, Pied and Cinnamon
- They are
always very active and can run up and down Aviary
Mesh just using their feet!
- They make a
lovely melodic call and are non-aggressive.
- Hardy &
- they will go into a mixed Aviary of similar non-aggressive birds but NOT when Breeding.
birds only - too active to be caged.
- They rarely
bite, even the hens
- They breed
all year round -
- but it's
better not to let them breed thru winter months as this
can cause problems i.e. egg-binding.
- They will
also have 3 - 4 clutches a year if you let them
- This is
not good for them.
rounds is more than enough.
- They have
big clutches anything from 4 - 8 eggs/chicks
Breeding - just one pair of Kakis per Aviary
- They love
just about ALL Fruit and Veg esp. Red Berries - they are a
delight to feed.
love to bathe and must ALWAYS have a bath available
otherwise they will bathe in their water dish.
- They will
even break ice to bathe!
- They must be
wormed (x2 per year) regularly as they are Floor Scavengers.
Usually b4 and after Breeding season.
- They eat a
small Parakeet Mix - not too keen on millet sprays - don't dislike them but don't relish them as lots of other birds do.
Rosellas (inc. G.M.R's)
enough to look after (similar to Kaki's in their
needs) BUT not at Breeding time - they
can be very aggressive towards other Breeds as well
as their own kind.
- They need
one pair of birds to one Aviary - which must be
double-meshed, with at least 1" gap, between adjoining Aviaries to prevent
toes being bitten off!!
also need another spare Aviary to put any youngsters
in that you breed, as the father can sometimes attack any
young males once they leave the nest esp. if he wants his
hen to go back to nest again. Some are o.k. - so don't pre-judge but do be aware! They love veg more than fruit but provide both.
the pink-coloured variation
- They originate from Hot, arid
Desert areas of Australia)
lovely quiet little bird, slightly smaller than a budgie but
- They come
in some lovely colours now inc. Lutino, Rubino, and Rosa.
- Colour in
wild is Brown fused with pink and blue.
similar in lots of ways to a budgie in it's habits and
is slightly different tho as a Bourke doesn't need anything
moist i.e. lettuce or fruit etc.
from a very arid area of Australia where it derives it's
moisture from tree bark, buds & spinefax grasses (very
course, dry Aus. grass).
- So, don't
offer moist foods esp. at breeding time -
- if you
do then the chicks will have a really nasty, sticky, wet
dropping which it will squirt all over the inside of the
See picture - click to enlarge►
They have a small millet seed mix with plain canary seed
- Keep away
from Linseed and Sunflower seeds as these are too rich and
fatty for their digestive systems.
- The love
- You must
offer fresh water but they don't really bathe but do like a
shower of rain on them.
- They are
"Dawn and Dusk" birds (they have bigger eyes) and are most
active at these times.
- They like
shaded areas in the Aviary to rest in during the middle part
of the day.
- Nest areas
must be shaded also.
- They have
a lovely tinkley call - Neighbour friendly!
- They will
breed en-colony, so long as the colony is well established
before the Breeding season starts.
- If not
established the cockbird can be quite aggressive while
protecting his Nest.
pair for life
can have 2 - 3 clutches per year.
4 - 8 eggs
If you breed with more than one pair in an
Aviary the hens can sometimes commandeer another
hen's nest/eggs and even chicks - which can be
- so better to have one pair per Aviary
Red Rumps (not for absolute Beginner but o.k for Novice)
- These birds
are quite prolific breeders and fairly easy to breed
for the Beginner BUT they can be quite aggressive,
esp. at Breeding time and have been known to attack
and kill other breeds of birds - so they don't mix
well with other breeds in an Aviary.
Lovebirds (Peach-faced can be a good bird to start with)
are little, stocky birds with a very powerful beak!
- You would
never put them into a mixed Aviary with birds that
are smaller than them esp. little Finches, as they have been
known to nip the legs completely off little birds
should be o.k. with birds that are of a similar size or
- I have seen
them in an Aviary with Budgies and
they seemed o.k.
- NOT at Breeding time
- 1 pair per Aviary when breeding
- Feed as
- Can be noisy.
- They have
lots of little pleasant, quirky habits
- - see
page on them
need nest box with sentry box on side.
the Cockbird can "keep Guard"
- Quite a big
bird although most of their length is their tail
by nature - non-aggressive.
- Inoffensive, melodic call
- Neighbour friendly!
- Pair for
life but only really have one round of chicks per year
- SEED :
they will eat most of what a Kakariki would eat inc. fruit and veg. Preference more towards Veg.
vibrant markings (Green, yellow and red)
- The hen is green
look like hens until approx. 18months old - so lots of
"hens" turn out to be cocks!!
- Will breed
around 2 years old.
- Will breed en-colony i.e. more than one pair in Aviary
- 3 -
Usually only rear one round of chicks.
Sometimes they will do two.
- Work well
in a Colony and will breed en-colony
- Lots of
- Grey is
the normal colour in the wild but you can get Lutinos,
white-faced, pied, Silvers etc.
- Easy to
sex - see page on "Breeds Needs"
- Can be a
bit flappy if there are a lot of them in an Aviary and you
go in with them
- Have a
fairly high pitch call if they are "shouting" but not too
- Will breed
most times of the year and have 2 - 4 clutches
- (3 should be
- Eggs : 4 -
Small parakeet - they are not as keen on fruit and veg
as Kakis and Barrabands.
Green Cheek Conures
(for the more experienced Keeper)
- Ideal for those with Asthma or an allergy to feather dust as these Conures have oil preen glands so don't produce feather dust.
- Fairly easy to look after
- Eat Cockatiel mix
- Love just about all varieties of fruit
- Love to bathe
- Natural Clowns with appealing personalities.
- Can be quite noisy compared to most of the other breeds as above.
- So not as "Neighbour friendly" as some others
- They do not shout all day - just usually when something startles them or it's feed-time!
- Not cheap to buy esp. the more interestingly coloured mutations.
- Can be kept en-colony but . . . .
- ONLY ONE PAIR Per Aviary when Breeding
- Can sometimes give problems when breeding
- Some Cocks can be vicious when breeding
- Also, some can kill the chicks
- Some pairs are not very good at feeding - so you need to be aware.
- If you get a good pair they are worth their weight in gold.
- Make superb Pets esp. if hand-reared
- They are natural clowns with loads of character
Turquoisines and Splendids
(not for absolute Beginner but o.k for Novice)
- Lovely little birds - similar size to Red-rumps and similar personalities.
- they come in some lovely mutation colours
- The eat a very similar diet to a cockatiel
- They can be kept in a mixed Aviary of similar-size birds
- but must be bred with ONLY ONE PAIR PER AVIARY
- They can be a bit vicious when in breeding mode
- The cock can chase then hen, sometimes mercilessly
- Not a noisy bird - so neighbour friendly.
(i.e. Pekin Robins,
Not for the absolute Beginner
- The name "Softbill" refers to their diet not their beak.
- i.e. they
eat foods like fruit, insects and nectars and rely less on
- They need
specialised feeding - so better to give them a miss until you
get some experience under your Belt.
- Separate feed stations
- They will keep the Aviary free of
ants, earwigs, flies, moths and even spiders.
- (They only tend to
eat the spiders' body tho' and leave the legs in a gruesome pile
on the floor.)
(Japanese & Italian + Chinese-painted
are the most common).
- Quail can be
put in the bottom of an Aviary and will "clean-up" spilled seed.
- The cock birds are pretty rampant during breeding season so you
would always need a "Trio" of Quail
i.e. 2 hens and 1 cockbird.
the cocks do "bother" the hens quite a lot and one
hen on it's own would "suffer"!
- They will lay regular eggs,
which are a delicacy found in Delicatessen shops.
Sexing : Japanese Quail hens have Black speckles
on their breasts the
cocks don't - their chests are usually a solid
Parrots / Cockatoos / Macaws
Not for the Beginner
- they are too
complex and have special needs nutritionally and
- They need constant attention and if they don't
get it can develop major problems i.e. screaming and Feather
Plucking and biting.
- Much better to gain experience on smaller easier to
look after breeds.
- You can end up with a major, expensive
problem on your hands
if you take a Parrot on without sufficient knowledge (and this
can take years to acquire!)
PET BIRDS (pros & cons
of each Breed for a First Time/Novice Owner)
Budgies / Cockatiels
ideal starter Pets
They can be hand-tamed - the cock birds can be
trained to Talk or whistle.
Senegals & Conures
are slightly bigger with bigger beaks, therefore
need more experience and knowledge but can be
entertaining and friendly.
they are natural "Clowns".
You can often find Ads for Hand-reared Babies
which will make ideal Pets.
- Senegals are slightly better at talking than Conures.
Canaries & Finches
are quite happy in a cage (healthier in an Aviary) -
not usually as easy to hand-tame - don't talk .
Cock Canaries can sing
Usually Canaries and Finches are pleasant to
watch and may interact thru the bars of the cage
but not usually let out to fly around - so not
an ideal life for the bird, esp. if it's a
Parrots & Macaws
- not for the
beginner bird owner ~ for all the reasons stated
Start with a smaller, easier to keep bird.
- My own personal feeling
Pet Birds is that they
should never be on their own and should always have a companion,
preferably one of it's own species, if not then a constant human
- The quickest way to end
up with an unhappy Pet is to leave it alone for
long periods of time -
- this can lead to all
sorts of psychological problems such as Feather plucking
(equivalent to nail-biting in a human) once they start it's very
difficult to get them to stop.
- the bigger parrots can
also starts "screaming" (this is for attention) and you shouting
at them to "stop" that gives them "attention" so they do it all
the more - it's a vicious circle.
- If you have a single
Pet Bird and have to leave it on it's own do make sure that at
least you leave a radio or TV on for it (pref. on cartoons as
they like the colourful movement).
- Don't have it too loud
- just as a background entertainment.
- When you are with them
- give them lots of attention i.e. talk to them and if they are
not going to panic and are used to being out - give them plenty
of time out of their cage.
- The average
"Parrot-like" will chew anything wooden - so be aware and
preferably give them something that is theirs to perch on.
- Don't let them perch on
your shoulder or head - height means "Dominance" to a
bird - it will consider itself more dominant than you if you let
it perch on the high spots in your house and on your body - this
can lead to more problems than you could envisage!
How to sex your Birds
Some birds you can tell
their sex by just looking at them i.e. Cocks and hens look
Hens are often a duller
colour and the Cockbirds brighter and bolder colour
One exception is the
Eclectus where the Cock is a solid green colour but the Hen
is a vibrant Blue and Red - you wouldn't think they were the
same species if you didn't know.
The Hen Eclectus is
also more dominant than the cockbird - the same
applies to Ring necks.
Some by listening to and
observing their behaviour eg: Canaries and Rosa Bourkes
the cocks may sing or
warble, strut, dance or just sit "tall" on the perch
Hens would be vocally
more quiet or emit single sounds like a chirp.
Hens are often more
aggressive i.e. they are practising for when they will have
to protect their nests
Hens are the ones
when you catch them BITE and mean it
Whereas Cocks can
still Bite but not with quite the same intensity
If you see a row of
birds together on a perch - the hens often sit a bit lower
on a more horizontal plane
The Cockbirds, in
general, tend to
sit up higher (more erect in their posture)
Some you can sex by the
colours eg: Eclectus
Some birds the Cocks are
one colour and the hens are totally different
In the Eclectus the Hen is
much the brighter colour being a deep, vibrant
Red and Blue - see pic >
The cock bird is a plain
Other birds just differ
in the intensity of colour -i.e. Cockatiels
the hens are duller and the
cockbirds brighter (esp. round the head area in the cockatiel)
Hens in Cockatiels usually
have horizontal bars down the underside of their tails
This is absent in the
In Lutinos and albinos
it's a little more difficult to see these bars.
Some you need to know what
colour the parents were to sex the youngsters
i.e. Red Rumps + Mutation
lutinos & rubinos)
the hens take on the
colours of the father and the young cockbirds take on the colour
of the mother.
(This is called
Some by the
size and shape of their head & beak. eg: Rosellas, Kakis
The Cocks have a bigger,
broader head and a bigger broader beak (a bit like a "Roman
The hens are significantly
smaller in the head and the beak
It's very obvious when you
have a cock and hen sat together
Poss. not quite so easy,
sometimes if you just have the one bird and nothing to compare
MOST OF THESE POINTS ARE
ONLY OBVIOUS ONCE THE BIRDS HAVE GONE THRU THEIR FIRST JUVENILE
MOULT BETWEEN 4 - 6 MONTHS - PRIOR TO THAT THEY OFTEN ALL LOOK
LIKE LITTLE "HENS"!
(What makes your
- Birds like
to be up as high as possible -
this is what makes
them feel dominant!
- This is why
you should NEVER allow your bird on your shoulder and def. NOT
ON YOUR HEAD!!
- Esp. if your
bird is already showing signs of dominance.
- It follows
that if you keep your bird low down in a cage or put something
or another cage with a bird
in on top of it's cage (hens in battery cages are a typical
example) then the birds underneath end up
- On the same
theme: when putting in perches and Nest-boxes - birds will vi
for the highest position
- At breeding
time there will be squabbles, fights and even savage injuries if
you don't keep your
nest-boxes similar (preferably same) size, design but def. all
at the same height.
- Birds don't
really trust Nest-boxes with pop-holes that have a much wider
hole than their bodies would
comfortably fit, as this, in the wild would allow predators access to the Nest area.
- If your bird
has reached a point where you are having problems with it
"screaming", shouting or being generally
noisy to try and gain
- The worst
thing you can do is shout at it to tell it to be quiet (or
similar choice phrases)
- As you
shouting at the bird is giving it the attention it seeks.
- All be it
negative attention - it is still attention
- So shouting at
the bird just escalates the problem and the bird will
shout/scream all the louder to get more response from you.
- The best
thing you can do is either QUIETLY cover the cage and walk out
of the room
- Make no
eye-contact and don't speak to the bird at all.
- This then is
not giving the bird the attention (good or bad) that it
- It does
however, mean that when you uncover the bird you must give it
- You must also
make sure that you bird gets enough exercise (out of the cage)
- Attention from
you and others in the family etc.
- Another pet
bird in the same room (in a different cage, of course)
- T.V. (cartoon
or music channel is enjoyed usually) or radio left on if you are
not in the room
- volume not too
invasive i.e. not too high
- Just imagine
yourself in a solitary cell with no views, no company or
attention - you would soon go mad too!!
- There are
General Vets, who have trained with birds
as well as other Exotics, within 100 mile radius of Cumbria.
- We are very lucky to have Avian Vet: Vicky Weeks-Temple from the Millcroft Vets Cumbria, Practice to help with Advice when necessary.
- Birds have a
very different internal structure, respiratory and
digestive system to mammals,
- Not every
General Vet has the specific knowledge needed to diagnose and
treat Avian (Bird) illness and
other Avian problems.
- So, as soon as
you purchase your Pet/Aviary birds, make it your business to
seek out your nearest specially-trained
AVIAN VET and register with them for your birds.
- Then keep their
contact details to hand for emergencies.
- You can use one
Vet for your Birds and a different one for your cat/dog/horses
- this is a quite
- I personally
have 3 different Vets - as I like to have Vets trained in the
specific field for the different species
I own, to give them the best attention possible if they are
- Varies from breed to breed as to the
age they can be Close-rung.
- If you get these
identity rings fitted at the correct age as the chick grows then
the rings cannot be removed unless they are cut off - so are a
good way of permanent identity for your birds.
- General rule of thumb is when the
chicks eyes are ⅟2 - 3/4 they are of the approx
age to ring.
- If you ring too early - the ring can
fall off and be lost in the nest substrate
- If you leave it too late then it poss.
won't fit over the ball of the foot and you may damage the chick
when trying to put it on.
- When ringing you hold the 3 forward
pointing toes in a straight line and put thru the ring then
slide the ring over the ball of the foot and GENTLY pull the
back toe thru the ring
- You can use the blunt end of a
matchstick if it's difficult - but be gentle as it's easy to
damage the foot.
- Make sure the ring moves round the leg
- Some parent birds
really object to the rings on their chicks - I knew of an
African Grey hen that tried to get the ring off her chick and
dislocated it's leg in doing so.
- In these cases (with
the bigger birds) if you know the parents do object - it would
be safer to have the chicks microchipped when they get older.
- Some parents object to their chicks
being handled and may attack the chicks to try and remove the
rings (be aware of this).
- If you have this problem - you can use
plastic split-rings, which come in many and varied colours.
- These can be put on at any age - so
you don't have to disturb the chicks until they are just about
ready to fledge.
- Canaries are often a problem in
- Once you have handled/ removed a
canary chick to put a closed-ring on, it often becomes a
"spring-loaded Furbie" and just keeps bouncing back out of
- this can be a problem if the weather
is cold and the chicks very young. (which they will be if
- It's often very difficult to get them
to go back into the nest and stay there!
- So if you don't have to close-ring
your canaries, then wait until they have fledged out of the nest
coloured split rings on them for identification.
- These are normally used on the
opposite leg, if used with a closed ring, for
- Esp. if you have birds that all "look
the same" and you need to identify them or which parents they
- Split rings can be put on at any age.
(Adults + chicks)
- The whole point of ringing, esp.
close-ringing is to provide identification and show the age of
- Esp. useful if your bird is stolen or
- If you have an idea of the sex of your
- (Budgies are a good example of this -
they are easy to sex in the nest by their ceres [fleshy bits
above their beaks] -
- baby hen chicks are pale fawn and cocks pale
- [also hen chicks "Bite"
with intent and cock-birds may give you a nip - but nothing
- you can put all the Hens' rings on their Left Legs
Cock-birds on their Right legs
- (this is a recognised way of ringing -
When birds are surgically sexed or DNA'd).
- Always make sure you have the correct
size of ring for the bird you are ringing.
- Also, make sure you order your rings
in good time - general rule of thumb for ringing is when the chicks' eyes are approx 1/2 open (this theory is a guide only).
- Take into consideration that everyone
else will be ordering theirs in Spring-time.
MICRO CHIPPING is also a very good way of identifying your (bigger) bird if found
after being lost/stolen.
- The Microchip is the
size of a grain of rice
- The Avian Vet will
inject it into the Birds' breast muscle via a broad hypodermic
- I had an A. Grey
youngster done and I just held it without any anaesthetic/gas
- Some Vets do like
to use a bit of Anaesthetic Gas or a local anaesthetic to
freeze the area.
- It was probably a bit
uncomfortable for the bird cos it did fidget a bit
- but I wouldn't say it
had been painful for the bird and no after effects.
- The Vet then runs a
"Scanner" over the site and checks the No. that comes up on the
Scanner tallies against
the No. the Microchip should be from it's packet.
- Then the paperwork is
filled out and the bird is registered with the relevant
- So now if your bird
escapes or is stolen and is found - it can be immediately traced
back to you, it's owner.
GENERAL TIPS & HINTS + BITS of ADVICE
& WATER DISHES
sure they are kept clean and free from seed husks
(which are what is left when the bird breaks
open a seed).
Sometimes the seed dishes "look full" but upon
closer inspection, are just full of seed husks
and the bird goes hungry
changed every day - more if you have a bird that
"dunks" its food in its water, as some tend to do.
- Conures and Kakis are guilty of this amongst many others.
container must also be brushed out as it can end up
slimy (esp. in sunny weather, which encourages the growth of green algae) even tho the water is put in clean.
must be de-husked by shaking the seed pot and
blowing the Lighter, husks off the top - make sure
the debris and rubbish that accumulates in the
bottom of the dish is also removed regularly.
HAVE A THEORY - IF I WOULDN'T EAT AND DRINK OUT OF
THE DISHES THEN THEY ARE UNACCEPTABLE !
This section is still to be expanded.
. . .
- Pros & cons
- Branches / types / sizes
- all sizes, widths.
- Safe branches off non-toxic trees from a clean source.
- Fruit tree branches are ideal.
- Ideal width is where the birds' foot just goes 1/2 way round
- Narrower than that is fine as long as you
have them mixed with other perches with different widths, textures and sizes. Too narrow and it doesn't give enough support but are o.k. to have an odd one in the Aviary.
- Birds nails should not be over long as they will prevent the bird from perching comfortably and safely.
- Position / height -
the higher the
better from the birds' point of view but you need lots of
and angles incl. just off vertical - to
mimic tree branches in the wild. Do not clutter the
Aviary with branches/perches tho - give the bird plenty of
uncluttered space to fly.
- Not dowel/bamboo -
too smooth so
provide poor grip and also could poss. predispose
- Coat hangers - esp those sold for hanging trousers over. (for the smaller finch/canary) as long as you have some rougher, wider perches available too.
- Shelves + small panel pin nails for fruit / veg
- mix for specific birds
- No bird should be allowed too many Sunflower seeds - too high in oil and as addictive as sweets are to children!!
- Monkey nuts can harbour Aspergillosis - only use "Human grade" if you do use them.
- Millet sprays - most parrot-like and parakeets love these and relish as a treat. Can be fattening if overfed.
- Types of seed pros & cons
- Hemp - helps at breeding time
- High and low proteins
- (different Breeds need different
levels of Protein & Fat content to their Foodstuff)!
- SEED Winnower / blowing husks off
FRUIT & VEG & NUTS etc.,
- Poisonous foods - Avocado / rhubarb / Chocolate / alcohol / bulb plants i.e. daffs, tulips & hyacinths
- Poisonous Fumes: TEFLON / VAPONA / PLUG-IN AIR
FRESHENERS + any aerosols inc. spray polish and anti-persp. etc
EGG FOOD - ideal high protein food used
to help bring your birds into breeding condition and also as a
soft-food provided for your parent birds to feed to their
youngsters in the nest.
- Purchase from Bird Sales Days
- Pet Shops
- Bird Seed suppliers
- BRANDS: E.M.P / Sluis / Witte Mollen (Rob Harvey's) - smells nice and stays moist - birds like it.
- Plastic Hang on
- Swing Feeders
- Metal clip on
- Hen-type feeders - these hang from roof or sit on Floor
- Tube feeders - only really useful for smaller seeds mixes as those with bigger seeds will not flow well.
- box feeders (as per cockatiel) - can get a build-up of stale seed if not cleaned out regularly (x1 per week)
- and this can encourage the infestation of mites + mould - very unhealthy to your birds.
- Most birds love to bathe.
- It is a necessary, healthy activity to help keep their feathers in pristine, healthy condition
- Fresh, clean water should be provided in the Bath every day
- In sunny weather the Baths often end up with Green algae-type of growth - make sure you clean them out at least
x1 per week to prevent bacteria multiplying in the water - which can cause digestive problems in your birds.
TYPES OF BATH you can use
- Clip-on Plastic
- Hang on mesh wire
- dog-dish on floor
- Cat litter tray on floor for
- Why essential to the quality of
the birds' feathers
- Dog dish
- Plastic on mesh
- Swing Feeder dishes
- Metal dishes on mesh
I am still building and expanding the topics on this page. It's a "work in progress" So, if you have any questions or queries etc., about bird-keeping please feel free to get in touch. Use the Advertising Form or Free Advice Form
- see "Pet Birds Page" for links.
Cuttlefish/ iodine nibbles
- Why you use
- How you fix to cage/mesh - special clips / clothes pegs / metal wire clamps / put small hole thru the cuttlefish and attach to mesh with small zip-tie.
Mineralised Grit /
oyster shell Grit
- Why it's needed & for which birds
WHEN to BREED
- How to recognise if your birds are
- What to feed in the run-up to the
- How to pair up
NEST BOXES / Nest Pans
- When to put in / up
- where to put
- and why
- Nesting material