SIGNS of an Eggbound Hen + Treatment
also Egg-laying Pet Birds

HOME Page Minor Ailments

Signs of an Egg-bound Hen bird

  • Clinical signs of egg binding are loss of appetite, depression, abdominal  straining, and sitting fluffed on the bottom of the cage, as they find it difficult to balance on a perch. Some hens may pass large wet droppings while others may not pass any droppings due to the egg interfering with normal “defecation” (passing of droppings). If you suspect your bird is egg bound, she should be seen immediately by a specialised Avian Vet .
     

  • Putting the bird in a warm Hospital cage and using cotton wool, to gently, smear warm (not hot!) olive oil (if you don't have Olive Oil - you could use sunflower oil) round the birds' Vent. This may help to ease the suffering, until you can get the bird to the Vet, and on the odd occasion may help the bird expel the egg without help. 

Vet's Tip : 
Egg bound hens - I've been told to hold them over steaming hot water (not boiling - ouch!) to increase humidity
+ might help them pass it!

N.B: NEVER try and expel an egg yourself— you can kill your bird and it will die in agony!
 Here is a picture of a poor budgie that died during the night while trying to lay her egg.
 Not a pretty picture but it just shows you what can happen.  We had had quite a few very Hot, sunny days and overnight the weather changed to cold winds and more like winter again. I'm not sure if this had any direct bearing on the poor hen ending up like this but ?? Click to enlarge picture ►
 
 CAUSES:

  • Laying too early in the year when the weather is too cold. Lack of calcium, minerals and other nutrients, can create an egg with a soft shell that is larger than normal or abnormally shaped. It also causes weaker muscles which are unable to contract properly to expel the egg.

  • The soft shell causes the egg to get trapped inside of the hens' body because the muscles in the ovary and cloaca can’t get a good grip on it to push it out.

  • Other causes of egg binding include other nutritional deficiencies, lack of exercise, being overweight and over-breeding.

  • So, it is important to build your bird’s condition up towards the Breeding Season, so it is healthy and fully fit b4 it is allowed to breed.

BUDGIES DO NOT NEED EXTRA CALCIUM SUPPLEMENTATION

  • They can get what they need from Cuttlefish and Grit

  • As long as this is clean and in sufficient quantity and quality.

    • - they take what they need, when they need it.

    • - they also know how much to take.

    • - they can't overdose on cuttlefish and grit, as they instinctively know how much
      to take on board and self-regulate their intake.

    • At breeding times a hen budgie can devour a lot of cuttlefish bone

    • which shows she does need extra calcium

    • But this is her choice and she will take what her body dictates it needs to form the eggs inside her.

    • Therefore this is the safest way to ensure Budgies get enough calcium in their diets.
       

  • They do not need the extra Calcium supplementation you can buy in powder or liquid form - added to their water or soft foods - where they have no option but to take it on board if they have a drink or eat the soft foods.
     

  • I have seen one or 2 Discussion Forums on the Internet, recently querying my statement, that Budgies Do Not need Extra Calcium supplementation.

  • These people are saying that budgies DO need extra calcium when breeding otherwise
    they take it from their own skeletal system (bones)
     

  • This I agree with : what I am saying is that if you put extra calcium supplements in their water or on their soft food, they have no option but take it into their system, often with disastrous effects, as often it is more than they need.

  • It is very easy to over-calcify Budgies.
     

  • However, you must always give the birds free access to Cuttlefish bone, mineralised grit + oyster-shell grit and iodine blocks.

    • The Hen then can take what she needs when she needs it and not have it forced on her by putting it into her food and water.

    • Too much calcium can also be responsible for D.I.S. if the shell is too hard for the chick to chip it's way out of.

    • Usually if they can manage to do the first external chip then they usually can manage to hatch successfully.

    • However, if the shell is too hard you may have a fully formed healthy chick but it may not be able to make the first external "star" chip through the shell - what a waste!!
       

  • There is sufficient calcium available in Cuttlefish bone, mineralised grit + oystershell grit for the average breeding budgies' needs - unless she has a specific problem with soft-shelled eggs and then I would question whether she should be breeding in the first place
    as she obviously is not in full health and would poss need a visit to an Avian vet for tests etc.

  • I hope this clarifies what I was saying.

A solitary pet bird

  • may also lay an egg or even a full clutch but they won't be fertile.

  • It could also become Egg bound.

  • If your Pet bird does lay eggs it's best to let her sit them, if she wants to, as removing them could stimulate her to lay more and this could deplete her body's calcium reserves.  

To Help Reduce the Chances of your Pet Bird Laying Eggs

  • **Often reducing daylight hours, by covering your Pet birds' cage earlier during the summer months, when daylight hours are long, can help prevent solitary Pet Hen Birds
    from laying unwanted eggs. 

    • You only need to do the above if your Pet hen bird is laying eggs already

    • no need to do it if she isn't - as a light, airey environment is healthy
       

  • Also, cut out high protein foods (i.e. titbits of cheese/chicken etc.,) 

  • Fruit and veg etc. is fine, in fact, necessary!