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BREEDS & THEIR NEEDS
UMBRELLA
COCKATOO
(Cacatua Alba)
This article was submitted by Club
Member Janette - Many Thanks to her.
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3
Baby Greys
+ 1 Umbrella Chick |
Molly &
Merlin |
Monty
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Charlie
protecting his N.Box
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DESCRIPTION
- White with a broad crest.
- The underside of tail and wings are yellow.
- Bill- blackish-horn colour.
- Eyes black (reddish-brown iris in a mature female)
- Length 45cm (18ins)
SEXING
- The Birds' are dimorphic (i.e. look the same or very
similar).
- so their sex can only be established by
DNA
Testing (feathers or blood)
- Or Surgical Sexing (by an Avian Vet).
- Or by the Adult bird's eyes once they reach about two+ years old.
- Female will have reddish-brown iris.
- Male the eyes are jet black.
- Mature female has a smaller head and beak
than the male.
GENERAL INFO
- Umbrellas aren't particularly good at talking.
- As a pet they need loads of constant attention.
- Not a bird to be left on it's own all day - so if you work, this
is not the bird for you!
- They call them the "Velcro Bird" and that's exactly what
they are like, very clingy.
- Very loving but unpredictable when in "Breeding
Mode".
- NOT for the beginner
Breeder/ Bird-keeper or as a "First Pet Bird"!
- They love to bathe. It's lovely to watch them upside down
with wings spread out
when there's a rain shower.
DISTRIBUTION
HABITAT
- Forest, Open Woodland, Mangroves and Swamps.
AVICULTURE
- Fairly noisy bird, initially shy.
- Quite a destructive bird, thin mesh is a Big "No No" with these birds, they can
chew thru. almost anything.
- Double, heavy-guage, parrot-proof wiring a must. Esp. if you have other birds in an adjoining Aviary.
ACCOMMODATION
- Ideally, provide a spacious flight with shelter - 18 x 6 x 6 ft is
an appropriate size.
- Clean shavings and pieces of wood for them to chew are adequate for the
nest box.
DIET
- Good quality Parrot
seed mix - not too many sunflower seeds.
- They love monkey nuts.
- Walnuts are a special favourite but have to be halved for them, as they
don't seem to be able to crack them open too well.
- Fruit and vegetables, love sweetcorn, peas and grated carrot mixed
with egg food.
- A calcium supplement, Daily essentials 3 + a Pro-biotic
once a week.
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Worming
x2 per year - spring b4 Breeding Season and Autumn after
Breeding Season finished
to prepare them for winter.
BREEDING
- Usually begins in spring but can occur at other times of the year.
- Breeding age starts around 4 - 5 years old.
- Hard wood nest box as ply wood won't last very long!
- A substantial Nest box size : approx.15" square 30" high.
- Clean shavings and pieces of wood for them to chew are adequate for them
to create their own
nest box base-bedding.
- Chewing the wood helps to stimulate them into
"Breeding mode".
- CLUTCH : is normally two eggs.
- Both birds sit the eggs in turn and both parents feed the chicks.
- Although, some do take longer to wean, they will beg for food for ages
after they really need it.
- So, it's really a case of playing things by ear to make sure the babies
don't suffer, physically or mentally.
- They should never move to a new home until they are fully independent.
Incubation - 28 days
Chicks Fledge - Around 14 weeks but still continue to be fed by the parents for weeks
afterwards.
First moult - Around
12 - 18 months old.
RINGING
- Age: Usually ring them about
2-3 weeks old.
- Ring Size : W
(12.7mm)
HAND-REARING
- Some Captive-bred, domesticated Umbrellas don't
sit their eggs well and if this is the case then it's best if the eggs are
removed and put in Incubators.
- Some will sit and hatch the chicks but tend just
to feed one of the chicks and the other one is left to
starve and
eventually die.
- Here is where Nest box cameras can help identify the
problem before the either chick gets to stage
where it is beyond help.
- It must then be removed (carefully & safely)
then hand-reared.
- Rarely, altho. it can happen, the parents manage
to successfully rear
both chicks.
- Often they may feed them happily and regularly up to 2 weeks
but often
not past 3 weeks.
- Keeping a close eye on them is the key and if the
parents start leaving the Nest box for extended periods,
- it's best to
remove the chicks and hand-rear, as they can easily get chilled,
- esp. if
the weather is cold and they don't have their parents to keep them warm.
- If a chick becomes
chilled, it's metabolism slows down and it's feed response suffers
- so then it does not "beg"
for food and therefore the parents are not stimulated to feed it.
- It's a catch 22 situation - this is why it's best
to remove the chick(s).
- Make sure you warm the chick(s) through by putting
it in a pre-heated Brooder.
- This will help save it's life and also speed up
it's metabolic rate to help kick-start it's "feed response"
when
you start to feed it.
- Some breeders are lucky and do have Umbrella pairs that will parent-raise
their chicks.
- A hand-reared baby would be ready at around
sixteen weeks old to go to a new home.
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