BREEDS & THEIR NEEDS
 Gouldian Finches

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This information was provided by Molly and John Eldridge, Club Members from Scotland.
Molly has bred Gouldians, Zebras and Bengalese for many years.
She has Won and been well placed in many prestigious Shows with her Bengalese, Zebras & Gouldian Finches 
both in Scotland and England, so is an expert in her own right.

Gouldian.jpg (35134 bytes)

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Bengalese + Gouldian + zebras

Some of the above Photos are Thumbnails - click to enlarge - click "Back to return to this page"

THE BREED

  • A brightly coloured Australian Finch, which is produced in a multitude of different colour variations.
  • It originates from the Hot dry areas of Australia.
  • It is very quiet and sociable and will mix in an Aviary with other similar sized, quiet finches.
  • Size:  approx 4" - 10cm.
  • Becos of it's ancestry it does require Heated accommodation, which must be kept to an average of 75 deg. F
  • During the Summer months there may be approx. 3 month period where you could put these lovely little finches into an outside Aviary - as long as you ensure there is free access to a warm shelter.
  • They are mainly housed in indoor Aviaries or Cages (3ft long 12" wide and 15" high minimum)
  • Never put in and Aviary with or in an Aviary next to Cockatiels, Lovebirds or Ringnecks or other
    Parrot-like species etc.  (unless there is a double mesh separated by at least 1" gap) 
  •  Lovebirds esp. have been known to nip the legs clean off smaller finch-type birds.

 

COLOURS

  • Blues  :  Lilac & Blue  :  Yellow & Lilac  :  Black / Red (light & Dark) /Orange Heads
  • You can mix the colours when breeding.

 

SEXING

  • When not in Breeding condition the HEN has black markings above and at the tip of her beak.
  • When in Breeding condition the HEN has a fully black beak from Top to Tip.
  • The cock Bird when ready to breed : "Dances" on the Branches and displays.
  • The cock Bird also has a RED TIP to his beak when in Breeding condition.
  • They become sexually mature around 1 year old. 
  • They go thru. their first Juvenile moult at approx. 6 months.
  • They moult again 6 months later, so it is after this 2nd moult that they are considered ready to breed.
  • They live approx. 5 - 6 years.

 

BREEDING

  • It is best to breed them in cages.
  • Put the Nestboxes onto the outside of the cage. 
  • The Nest box (approx. 6" x 4") is shaped a bit like a Luton over the cab of a Lorry, with the hole on the side of the "Luton" so that they  can go into the hole and onto a small platform before dropping into the main Nest box.
  • As with the Bengalese, you give them a small 2" wad of Coconut Fibre, which they pull to pieces and make into a ball-shaped Nest, similar to a Jenny Wren's. They also use their own down feathers to line the nest.
  • If you have the lid of the nest-box hinged, you can discreetly check on the contents, when the birds are out of the Nest box.
  • They mate and bond for life.
  • However, if you find that the Hen consistently lays infertile Eggs, you can split them up and re-pair them BUT THEY MUST BE WITHIN SIGHT AND SOUND OF EACH OTHER AT ALL TIMES, otherwise they won't settle and won't think of breeding with another partner.
  • They lay 5 - 7 eggs
  • INCUBATION: 14 Days from the last Egg being laid (same as the Bengalese)  
    This is so that all the chicks hatch approx. together.
  • FLEDGE:  approx. 20 days they come out of the nest.
  • RING:  10 days (closed rings) Plastic split rings any time after 10days to adulthood.
  • Closed RING SIZE:  C    
  • Split plastic Ring size:   XF
     
  • They stay with their parents for another 3 months. 
  • If the Hen goes back to nest the father keeps feeding the Chicks until they become independent.
  • They are often used, not to best advantage of the hens' health, as BREEDING MACHINES!!
  • By this I mean that they can lay a clutch of Eggs, which are removed and put under a surrogate
    Bengalese mum and then the Gouldian Hen will lay again and so on, thus depleting her
    calcium reserves etc. if done too often.
     
  • It is important when breeding that they have FREE ACCESS to CHARCOAL (essential!)
    + GRIT & CUTTLEFISH.
  • EMP Eggfood lightly moistened, is essential to feed when chicks in the Nest. Feed with added supplementation (Daily Essentials 3) as required (follow directions on supplement tubs)
    DO NOT OVER-SUPPLEMENT!
  • Add Mealworms to their diet (poss in the EMP Eggfood) when Breeding for the extra Protein.
  • Protein levels are upped just prior to and during Breeding.

 

MOULTING

  • The worst times for the Youngsters after they have left the security of the Nest and comfort of their parents is when they go thru. their first moult.
  • It is essential that they are fed correctly and the Temp. is a min. of 75deg F.
  • They need supplementation during the moult.  Daily Essentials 3 added to soft food is ideal.

 

FEEDING

  • Foreign Finch + Budgie seed + Plain Canary Seed + millet sprays.
  • They don't really like Fruit & Veg (poss becos they come from the Hot, arid area of Australia)
  • FRESH WATER must be freely available at all times.

 

AIR SAC MITES

  • Gouldians are prone to Air Sac Mites.
  • SYMPTOMS:  The bird sits fluffed up looking unhappy and it's beak gapes.
  • TREATMENT:  Some Experts advocate giving MILK for the bird to drink. 
    Alternatively, you could get     PANOMEC (an ivermectin-based liquid) off your VET. 
         You administer this by blowing the feathers apart at the back of the neck, where the bird can't reach when it preens and putting ONE DROP of the liquid via a dropper provided with the bottle.  This acts systemically (i.e. it is absorbed thru. the skin - both the birds and yours, if you are not careful)!!   It's a bit like using "Frontline" on your Dog or Cat.
         It is essential, therefore that you wear RUBBER GLOVES to do this!
  • PANOMEC kills internal worms and external parasites, such as mites and lice etc.

 

BATHING

  • Once again becos. they come from an area that is hot and dry they tend NOT to BATHE.
  • They do like a light, warm rain shower during the hotter summer months.
  • They DO NOT like DAMP and the COLD.

**It must be noted that even though Gouldians are a delight to own they ARE NOT a BEGINNERS bird and do require specialised knowledge and care to ensure they are kept in the best of health both mentally and bodily.

Beginners would be better to start and gain knowledge and experience with Bengalese or Zebra Finches.

 

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