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 DESCRIPTION

• White with a broad crest.

• The underside of tail and wings are yellow.

• Bill- blackish-horn colour.

• Eyes black (reddish-brown iris in a mature female)

• Length 45cm (18ins)

SEXING

•  The Birds' are dimorphic (i.e. look the same or very similar). 

  •  so their sex can only be established by DNA Testing (feathers or blood) 

  •  Or Surgical Sexing (by an Avian Vet).

•  Or by the Adult bird's eyes once they reach about two+ years old.

•  Female will have reddish-brown iris. 

•  Male the eyes are jet black.  

•  Mature female has a smaller head and beak than the male.

GENERAL INFO

• Umbrellas aren't particularly good at talking.

• As a pet they need loads of constant attention.

• Not a bird to be left on it's own all day - so if you work, this is not the bird for you!

• They call them the "Velcro Bird" and that's exactly what they are like, very clingy.

• Very loving but unpredictable when in "Breeding Mode".
   

• NOT for the beginner  Breeder/ Bird-keeper or as a "First Pet Bird"!
   

• They love to bathe.  It's lovely to watch them upside down with wings spread out 
  when there's a rain shower.

DISTRIBUTION

• Mainly Indonesia.

HABITAT

•  Forest, Open Woodland, Mangroves and Swamps.

AVICULTURE

• Fairly noisy bird, initially shy. 

• Quite a destructive bird, thin mesh is a Big "No No"  with these birds, they can chew thru. almost anything. 

• Double, heavy-guage, parrot-proof wiring a must.  Esp. if you have other birds in an adjoining Aviary.

ACCOMMODATION

•  Ideally, provide a spacious flight with shelter - 18 x 6 x 6 ft is an appropriate size.

• Clean shavings and pieces of wood for them to chew are adequate for the nest box.
  

DIET

• Good quality Parrot seed mix - not too many sunflower seeds.

• They love monkey nuts. 

• Walnuts are a special favourite but have to be halved for them, as they don't seem to be able to crack them open too well.

•  Fruit and vegetables, love sweetcorn, peas and grated carrot mixed with egg food.
   

• A calcium supplement, Daily essentials 3 + a Pro-biotic once a week.

• Worming    x2 per year - spring b4 Breeding Season and Autumn after Breeding Season finished
  to prepare them for winter.

BREEDING

• Usually begins in spring but can occur at other times of the year.

• Breeding age starts around 4 - 5 years old. 

• Hard wood nest box as ply wood won't last very long! 

• A substantial Nest box size  : approx.15" square 30" high.

• Clean shavings and pieces of wood for them to chew are adequate for them to create their own
  nest box base-bedding.

• Chewing the wood helps to stimulate them into "Breeding mode".
   

• CLUTCH :  is normally two eggs.

• Both birds sit the eggs in turn and both parents feed the chicks.

• Although, some do take longer to wean, they will beg for food for ages after they really need it.  

• So, it's really a case of playing things by ear to make sure the babies don't suffer, physically or mentally.  

• They should never move to a new home until they are fully independent.
  

Incubation -  28 days
Chicks Fledge - Around 14 weeks but still continue to be fed by the parents for weeks afterwards.
First moult   - Around 12 - 18 months old.

RINGING

• Age:  Usually ring them about 2-3 weeks old.

• Ring Size :  W (12.7mm)

HAND-REARING

• Some Captive-bred, domesticated Umbrellas don't sit their eggs well and if this is the case then it's best if the eggs are removed and put in Incubators.

• Some will sit and hatch the chicks but tend just to feed one of the chicks and the other one is left to
  starve and eventually die. 

• Here is where Nest box cameras can help identify the problem before the either chick gets to stage
  where it is beyond help.

• It must then be removed (carefully & safely) then hand-reared.

• Rarely, altho. it can happen, the parents manage to successfully rear both chicks.

• Often they may feed them happily and regularly up to 2 weeks but often not past 3 weeks. 

• Keeping a close eye on them is the key and if the parents start leaving the Nest box for extended periods,

  • it's best to remove the chicks and hand-rear, as they can easily get chilled,

  • esp. if the weather is cold and they don't have their parents to keep them warm.

• If a chick becomes chilled, it's metabolism slows down and it's feed response suffers

  • so then it does not "beg" for food and therefore the parents are not stimulated to feed it.

• It's a catch 22 situation - this is why it's best to remove the chick(s).

• Make sure you warm the chick(s) through by putting it in a pre-heated Brooder.

• This will help save it's life and also speed up it's metabolic rate to help kick-start it's "feed response"
  when you start to feed it.

• Some breeders are lucky and do have Umbrella pairs that will parent-raise their chicks.
   

• A hand-reared baby would be ready at around sixteen weeks old to go to a new home.

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